Daily Life in Greece and Rome

Travel and Inns in the Roman World

What travelling on Roman roads was like: how far people went in a day, where they stayed, how the imperial relay system worked, and the dangers on road and sea.

On this page
  1. Roads built for armies, used by everyone
  2. How far could you go in a day?
  3. Where travellers stayed
  4. Finding the way
  5. Travel by sea and river
  6. Dangers on the road
  7. Why it mattered

Roads built for armies, used by everyone

Roman roads began largely as military and administrative infrastructure. As Roman expansion carried the state across Italy and then the Mediterranean, the army and officials needed reliable routes, and Roman legions are often credited with building many of them. The Via Appia, begun in 312 BCE and traditionally linked with the censor Appius Claudius, is the most famous early example. Over time the network grew to cover tens of thousands of kilometres, although its exact size depends on what is counted as a major road.

Construction varied. Many roads had a raised, cambered surface made from layers of stone, gravel and sand, with ditches for drainage, and some stretches were paved with stone blocks. Others were simply compacted gravel. Milestones gave distances from a starting point, usually a city, and often named the emperor who repaired the road.

Roads were not only for soldiers. Merchants, officials, farmers with carts, pilgrims, students and people visiting relatives all used them, though ordinary people travelled less than we might expect and most journeys were local.

How far could you go in a day?

Speeds depended on the means of transport, the terrain and the weather, so any figure is an estimate. On foot, around twenty Roman miles, roughly thirty kilometres, in a day is a commonly cited figure for a determined walker. Carts and wagons pulled by oxen were slower. Wealthy travellers in carriages or litters could go farther but still faced the limits of animals and daylight.

The fastest travel was the imperial courier service, often called the cursus publicus, which developed under Augustus and was a means for official messages and officials. It used relay stations, where riders and carriages could change animals. Estimates for ordinary official travel are often around fifty miles a day, and exceptional emergency journeys were far quicker, though ancient reports of record speeds are few and the details uncertain. Use of the system was limited to authorised people who carried a permit, and it could burden local communities that had to supply animals and lodging.

Where travellers stayed

Along main roads there were two kinds of official stopping points. Larger stations, called mansiones, offered lodging, stabling and meals for officials. Smaller ones, mutationes, were for changing horses. Itineraries listed the distances between these stops, and a text such as the Antonine Itinerary gives route information. The Peutinger Table, a medieval copy of what is thought to be a late Roman road map, shows the network schematically.

Ordinary travellers used commercial inns and taverns, with names such as caupona, taberna and deversorium. Some were respectable; many had a poor reputation. Writers describe bad food, watered wine, noise, fleas, and innkeepers who overcharged or colluded with thieves. Such descriptions come largely from satire, so they may exaggerate. Wealthy travellers often avoided inns altogether, staying with friends or at their own villas along the way, or relying on hospitality networks.

Archaeology adds detail. Towns such as Pompeii and Ostia preserve taverns with counters and benches, and the pattern of Pompeii daily life included many places to eat, drink and sleep. Roadside buildings, wells and stables have also been identified in provincial excavations.

Finding the way

Roman travellers had no maps like ours. They relied on itineraries, which were lists of towns and distances, on milestones, on local advice and on guides. A few engraved silver cups found at Vicarello in Italy list the stops on a route from Cadiz to Rome, which suggests that such lists were valued by travellers or by people who wanted a souvenir of the journey. Written directions are an example of a society organising geography through sequences of stops and distances, not through scaled maps.

Travel by sea and river

Roads were only part of the picture. Goods, and often people, moved more cheaply by water. Sea travel could be faster than land when winds were favourable, but sailing depended on weather. Sailing was generally avoided in winter, roughly November to March, which is why a traveller might wait for spring. The history of ancient seafaring is closely tied to the everyday risks of shipwreck, and busy ancient harbours such as Ostia and Puteoli were important places where passengers could find a ship. Rivers and canals also carried traffic, including Nile river boats in Egypt. Navigation relied on coastlines, landmarks and the stars, and those who wanted to know more about the methods can read about ancient navigation methods.

Passengers on cargo ships typically had to bring their own food and bedding, and could find themselves with little comfort and little say in the route. The Acts of the Apostles contains one detailed ancient account of a voyage and shipwreck, which gives a sense of the risks.

Dangers on the road

The main risks were:

  • Bandits. Robbery was a concern on remote stretches, and writers complain about brigands, though the empire also made efforts to police major routes.
  • Weather and terrain. Mountain passes, flooded rivers and winter conditions could stop travel.
  • Illness and injury. Medical help was not always at hand, and a long journey could expose a traveller to disease.
  • Dishonest hosts and fraud. The tales of inns reflect real worries about being cheated.

Travellers sometimes took precautions such as moving in groups, carrying little of value, or making offerings to protective gods at shrines along the road.

Why it mattered

Roman roads and shipping lanes made trade, administration and cultural exchange possible on a large scale. Some of the same routes carried goods linked to the Silk Road trade routes and the Indian Ocean, including cargoes that depended on monsoon trade winds. For ordinary people, though, the journey was slow, uncertain and often uncomfortable. Seeing travel in this way helps explain why a letter or an order could take days or weeks to arrive, and why local government and local identity remained so important across the empire.

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